Titanium Treasures

by Michael Thompson

Each year at BaselWorld crowds gather at the windows of the Corum exhibit. Many are initially drawn by the structure’s unusual material and window displays, which are different each year and rarely disappoint. Once there, crowds eye the timepieces displayed inside the glass, and continue their journey all the way around the sizeable display.
This attention to eye-catching detail in virtually every corner it shows to consumers has been a hallmark of Corum since Rene Bannwart and Gaston Ries first set up shop in 1955. The founders’ decidedly modernist—and often courageous-—design flair echoed in the timepieces, and the firm has marked its five-decade-long history with distinctive dials, cases and crystals that never fail to intrigue its customers—and influence the entire timepiece industry.
This year, crowds again formed at the Corum exhibit with their eyes drawn to the Ti-Bridge, a fully in-house baguette-shaped movement, made primarily of titanium, that is dramatically set into a matte and polished titanium case. Many placed the watch (seen on this month’s cover) on their “best-of” lists after the event, noting its innovative design both inside and out.

Design impact
The new Ti-Bridge continues a long tradition for the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based firm. One need only note the Coin Watch, an instant hit that the firm made first in 1964, or the Romvlvs, with its groundbreaking use of Roman numerals only on the bezel, to recall the firm’s significant impact on the past half-century of watch design. Consider the large-cased Buckingham that in 1965 was well ahead of its time as a large-cased timepiece, or more recently the Bubble, which became an instant icon for the brand in 2000. That watch set off a host of imitators and sparked a consumer fondness for thick watches and very limited editions that remains quite evident among collectors. 
When the late Severin Wunderman bought the firm from the original owners nine years ago, many agreed that his artistic and design sense meshed perfectly with the brand’s history. He rejuvenated Corum’s street cred almost instantly with the aforementioned Bubble, while at the same time revitalizing the entire company with a steady flow of creative ideas.

The son rises
His son Michael was appointed to lead the firm several years ago. Working closely with CEO Antonio Calce, he continues that legacy and has in recent years focused on solidifying Corum’s high-watchmaking credentials.
“The Bubble watch was responsible for bringing Corum back to the avant-garde of watch-making when my father purchased the brand in 2000,” says Wunderman. “That being said, the Bubble will always be near and dear to me, but we decided in 2005 to rebuild the reputation as a legitimate watch-making force and capitalize on the rich heritage and designs for which Corum has always been recognized.” His leadership (his father passed away last year) is marked by a focus on four of Corum’s “pillars,” its Admiral’s Cup, Romvlvs, Artisans and the Corum Bridge collections.  
The Ti-Bridge recalls Corum’s long-standing expertise with baguette-shaped movements, which dates to 1980 when Corum and movement maker Vincent Calabrese made waves with the Golden Bridge, a gold movement shaped like a baton that seemed to float inside sapphire, mesmerizing collectors. That movement was Corum’s first in-house caliber. In recent years Corum has revisited and remade that original design, reviving and strengthening the feather-light movement, and placing it into several contemporary cases.
“The original introduction of the Golden Bridge timepiece in 1980 and the redesigned caliber introduced in 2005 for our 50th anniversary has been a pillar of our brand for many years,” notes Wunderman. “The creation of the Ti-Bridge is a logical step in the evolution of the Bridge Family because Corum is famous for the linear movement design, thus enhancing our brand’s integrity.”
In other words, the Bridge’s linear movement—rather than 
a three-hand automatic or a 
chronograph—was the perfect starting point from which to develop its second in-house caliber.
The new movement is Corum’s second in-house caliber and it is clearly inspired by its first, the Golden Bridge caliber CO 113.
“The chronograph market is a very crowded place and with so many options available for a chronograph we decided to develop a movement that is quintessentially Corum and builds on our core brand DNA—the Bridge family,” says Wunderman.
With the new Ti-Bridge he has created the first movement made primarily of titanium (several wheels and the balance itself remain as traditional steel) and at the same time has launched a new platform for future Corum models that will likely include additional functions. The Ti-Bridge will be limited to production of 750 this year, with each unit numbered. A special black PVD-coated Ti-Bridge limited edition of 150 is currently in the works.
Placing this new movement horizontally rather than vertically into the case immediately renews the aesthetic of the Bridge—underscoring the fact that the firm doesn’t let its technical mettle smother its well-established sense of design. Not only has Corum made an all-new movement, it has completely altered how the movement is placed inside the watch and it has created for this caliber a wholly original curved tonneau titanium case.
That’s a lot of new gathered into one single debut.

More Bridges
Corum’s new Bridge does not replace the first Bridge caliber. This year Corum has again updated its 2005-enhanced Bridge, Caliber CO 113, by placing it horizontally—just like its titanium brother—inside its case. Here, however, the firm uses a smaller diamond-set rose gold or white gold case and calls the result Golden Bridge Lady. The 41 mm by 34 mm case is not petite by any means, ensuring a clear view of the namesake decorated gold bridge and angled case, which even under the sapphire is set with diamonds.
However, unlike the new titanium edition, this ladies model will only be made in very limited editions of 175. Prices start at $34,200 and rise to $98,000 for a version with large baguette diamonds instead of round diamonds.   

Admiral’s Cup
As the firm’s best-selling collection, and easily its sportiest, the Admiral’s Cup models often 
receive special treatment by Wunderman, who frequently sets an interesting complication into the watch’s sturdy twelve-sided case or creates limited editions within the Cup family. Past versions include a tourbillon, a power reserve, a foudroyante and a split-seconds mechanism. Corum works closely with Switzerland’s top movement masters to create these technically proficient and always sporty collections.
This year, Corum has blackened the 44 mm case of an Admiral’s Cup chronograph with black PVD to create the Black Challenge 44, a bold model equipped with a black rubber strap whose buckle is also, yes, blackened. Interestingly, the SuperLuminova coating on this model is also dark, emitting a grayish glow and coating the hands and the markers. It’s not all black, however, as a version with a white dial is available.
Also new this year is the Admiral’s Cup GMT 44 with a red GMT hand and more open dial layout than the collection has seen in the past. A steel edition with a leather strap is priced at $4,800 while the steel bracelet model retails for $5,500. A gold-cased edition sells for $15,500.     
Another limited model, the Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 50 LHS, is a very large-cased edition from the same collection that 
caters to those who prefer a left side crown.
Made in titanium and in 888 units only, the watch’s LHS name refers to the left-hand side arrangement (which of course also places the pushers to the left). The two-counter chronograph layout leaves out the subdial for elapsed hours, somewhat opening up more space on the already larger dial. This model retails for $8,500, while special precious metal versions, slated for later this year, will of course retail for more.
Looking ahead this year, Wunderman points to a some surprises  the brand has created for the innovative Romvlvs collection, where many of Corum’s newer high-horology pieces will debut.    
More of the firm’s collections in recent years feature limited editions and limited production, which Wunderman says reflects Corum’s historic focus on high-end watchmaking.
“We offer timepieces with serious value and substance, and not just a pretty face.”